How to Choose Houseplants

Winter conditions indoors can be tough on houseplants. The combination of warm, dry air and lower light levels can wreak havoc on even the toughest species. To help you keep your houseplants healthy and happy, the Bayer Advanced houseplant page covers all the basics on how to grow houseplants, from choosing potting soil to watering, fertilizing and controlling insects. We also offer several stories below on how to choose pots, transplant and select houseplants for specific conditions or ornamental characters.

Bayer Advanced helps simplify growing houseplants. To feed and protect against insects, use Bayer Advanced™ 2-in-1 Insect Control plus Fertilizer Plant Spikes Plant Spikes. Nothing could be easier, and there is no spraying necessary – just load the spike in the applicator provided, push the tip in the soil, release and water in for up to eight weeks of feeding and protection. To control existing insect problems, use Bayer Advanced™ Dual Action Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-To-Use (take plants outdoors to spray). It kills insects on contact and protects for up to 30 days.

Houseplants for Areas With Low Light

When choosing houseplants it is very important to select ones that will do well in the different light conditions in your home. Some houseplants prefer bright light that occurs near a south- or west-facing window. Others like a little less light, like you might find across the room from a bright window. But probably the most difficult situation for any houseplant is in low-light conditions, such as you might find far from any window or in a room with only a little natural light. Only a few houseplants will thrive there. Here are a few of the best:

Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum) bears large, deep-green leaves, which have bold silver markings in some varieties. Grows about two feet high and at least as wide.

Parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans) is the classic Victorian palm with wonderfully textured, feathery, dark-green leaves. Can grow up to eight feet high but is usually smaller.

Philodendrons are a large family of plants that thrive under low-light conditions. It includes popular heart-leaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens oxycardium), which is a vining plant that can be trained to climb a wire pillar or grown in hanging baskets. The closely related split-leaf philodendron (Monstera deliciosa), however, is actually not a good choice for low light, becoming spindly with small leaves.

Pothos (Epipremnum pinnatum ‘Aureum’) is a vining plant with heart-shaped green leaves splashed with yellow. With good care, it can climb seemingly forever.

Mother-in-law’s tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata) has thick, upright, sword-like leaves beautifully marked with shades of green, yellow or white. Most grow about 12 to 18 inches high but there are also dwarf varieties. Mother-in-law’s tongue is about as tough a houseplant as you can grow, adapting to a variety of conditions.

Spathiphyllums bear large, deep-green, arching leaves and beautiful, calla-like, white flowers on tall stalks. They are one of the few plants that will bloom in low light. There are many types to choose from, ranging in height from under two feet high to over six feet high.

Even the plants described above will need some natural light to thrive. None will grow well in a dark room or one with no windows. Water and fertilize regularly, but be careful not to over-water since soil will be slow to dry out.

Flowering Houseplants

Many outdoor flowering plants, including miniature roses, hydrangeas, mums and azaleas, can be brought indoors where, with proper water and light, they will stay in bloom for a week or more. But eventually the blooms wither and the plants go back outside or are thrown away. A few plants, however, grow well indoors year-round and bloom over and over again. Here are five of the very best:

Chenile plant (Acalypha hispida) produces fuzzy, long, red, cat tail-like blooms that dangle from the ends of the branches. It grows best in bright light and high humidity — great for a sunny kitchen window.

Bromeliads are tubular, succulent plants that produce tall spikes of dazzling flowers. There are many types to choose from, some with brightly colored foliage. They grow in bright, indirect light and loose soil kept on the dry side. Some are epiphytes (they grow naturally in the bark of trees) and can be grown on pieces of wood, cork or dried branches.

African violets (Saintpaulia) are dainty plants with fuzzy leaves and beautiful clusters of white, red, pink and purple blooms. They prefer bright indirect light, even moisture and regular fertilizer.

Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) is a cascading plant with dangling succulent branches tipped with bright rosy red blooms around Christmas. It blooms best with bright indirect light and long, cool nights in November. Fertilize and water regularly.

Spathiphyllums are sometimes called peace lilies and are one of the most reliable blooming houseplants. The shiny, dark green leaves are topped by stunning bright white blooms with a strong tropical feel. Some types are small plants, just a foot or two high; others can reach up to six feet high. The taller the plant, the bigger the blooms. Flowers best in bright, indirect light but will do well in low light. Water regularly and fertilize often.

How to Grow Flowering Houseplants

Each flowering houseplant has its own requirements when it comes to blooming, but most will do best with bright indirect light like you’d find near (but not directly in the sun) a west- or south-facing window. Keep plants away from cold drafts and maintain vigorous growth with regular water and fertilizer.

Repotting Houseplants

Fall is a good time to repot houseplants. Fresh soil and room for new root growth will help keep plants healthy through winter.

What should you consider when choosing a new container? There are several important things. Naturally, a new pot should be attractive, highlighting the plant or the surroundings. But you should also consider size, color and the material the pot is made of. These factors influence how easy the container is to move and how often the plant needs to be watered.

If you are potting up a household or other plant that has gotten root-bound, the new pot should be at least two to four inches larger in diameter. That’s enough space for new root growth without making the pot a great deal heavier. In general, it’s best to move up gradually in pot size.

Also consider the weight and porosity of the pot. Lightweight plastic pots will be easier to move than heavier ceramic or terra cotta pots. Terra cotta pots are also porous, so water evaporates through the sides. While this is good for aerating the soil, it causes the pot to dry out faster than plastic or ceramic pots. Dark-colored pots situated in sunny spots also warm up and dry out faster than light-colored ones.

To repot houseplants, gently remove the plant from the existing pot. This will probably be easiest if you water the plant several days before transplanting so the soil is moist. To remove smaller plants from the pot, place your hand over the top so you can catch the root ball. Tip the entire plant upside down and tap the rim of the pot on a hard surface until the root ball releases. With larger pots, you may have to run an old knife around the edges before the root ball can be gently pulled out. If the plant still won’t come out of a clay or ceramic pot, you may have to break the pot. To do so, place it in a bag or wrap it in an old sheet. Tap the pot with a hammer until it breaks.

Place enough potting soil in the bottom of the new pot so the top of the root ball is at least an inch below the rim. Put the plant in the pot and fill around the edges with potting soil. Water well. If necessary, add more soil.

Controlling Spider Mites

Spider mites like it warm and dry – exactly what it’s like in many homes in winter. These tiny spider-like insects are just about invisible to the human eye, but you can definitely see the damage they do. Spider mites suck plant juices from houseplant leaves, causing them to turn yellowish with a silvery sheen, and often to drop off. They usually congregate on the undersides of the leaves, and if the infestation is bad enough, you’ll see the webbing there. Another way to test for mites is to hold a piece of white paper under a branch and shake it. If you see any tiny specks fall on the paper, those are mites. Spider mites like dusty plants so it helps to frequently wipe down leaves with a damp cloth. But for sure-fire control, use Bayer Advanced™ 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control Ready-To-Use (spray outdoors). It controls many insects and spider mites and cures and prevents fungal diseases.